One feels at moments as if one could with a touch convey a vision. —W. B. Yeats
I
In the middle of the twelfth century in the middle of nowhere, John the Hermit built a church. He dedicated his efforts to St. Nicholas (yes, that St. Nick) and to the needs of pilgrims crossing Spain’s isolated Oca Mountains on their way to Compostela. On the north side o…
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